March 2, 2022
“The spectacle of this city, sitting on the bulk of two rocks rent asunder by a pickaxe and separated by the narrow, deep gorge of the river, corresponds very well to the image of that city revealed in dreams. The spectacle of this city is indescribable and around it lies a spacious valley with cultivated plots of land, holly and olive groves. And there in the distance, as if it had recovered all its strength, the pure mountains rise, range after range, forming the most splendid background.”
- Rainer Maria Rilke (1875-1926)
Ronda has been described as the most spectacular of the Andalusian “Little white towns”. It is easy to see why.
The city of 35,000 residents is perched precariously atop a cliff edge over looking spectacular cultivated farms below. In medieval times the cliff side perch had its advantages. It made for a useful defense from invaders. During the Reconquista it was one of the last Moorish strongholds to fall before the Alhambra in Granada. It is also the romantic home of the 19th century Bandeleros (Bandits).
Today, the striking cliff sides are a magnet for travelers and next to the famous Bullfighter ring it is the biggest draw to the city. El Tajo, The Spanish name for the ravine, is 300 feet deep and 200 feet wide. It separates the whitewashed old city, the Moorish quarter, from the new town, El Mercadillo, that was established after the Reconquista.
The so called “New Bridge” than spans the gorge was built in 1735. The view overlooking the gorge is spectacular. From this vantage point you can see the foundations of an earlier bridge and original city gate that fell to the conquering Christians. One of the old buildings has a tunnel that descends 200 feet to the river below. it was built by the Moors to get water during a siege. It is a 20 story building climb back up along narrow steep stairs.
We elected not to do that.
I am including some additional shots of this photogenic city and some aerial views. It was a striking day with vivid blue skies and mild temperatures.
A comment or two about masks -
Everyone wears masks here. There seems to be no protest at all to their use and a general understanding that it is polite behavior against the background of an epidemic.
We have seen no outbursts or complaints. In fact, quite the opposite is true. Generally we do not wear masks outdoors, but we immediately feel like we are showing bad manners when we enter a store and forget we have it off.
Against the backdrop of the insanity some Americans show about mask wearing, it is a refreshing change.
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