“MacArthur's Park is melting in the dark
All the sweet, green icing flowing down
Someone left the cake out in the rain
I don't think that I can take it
'Cause it took so long to bake it
And I'll never have that recipe again”
-Richard Harris
We made it to Barcelona, Catalonia after being chased, to a degree, for three days by the sands of the Sahara Desert. A large storm had struck Morocco and tons of desert sand was lifted into the atmosphere. I have never been near a volcano when it is erupting but, like falling ash, a fine coating of sand was all over everything. The air quality plummeted and as we traveled Northeast on the train the sky was overcast with yellow grey clouds for miles.
The sand finally cleared as we approached the coast. We entered Catalonia, a fiercely autonomous region of Spain. They speak the Catalonian dialect here and signs are in that language. Barcelona is a large city with a population of over 2 million. It sits among rolling hills that gradually recede to the coast of the Mediterranean.
This city is beautiful.
Below is a throw back to Viktor - The most interesting man in the World who we met in Sweden on another Episode
Even though the weather remained overcast, it could not diminish the obvious beauty and sophistication of this city. In my view, the closest equivalent would be walking through Paris.
You are surrounded by a mix of modern buildings and architecture that is richly art nouveau. Gabled balconies with iron railings abound and richly ornamental bay windows are everywhere. Old and new are carefully blended together to create a rich and intoxicating atmosphere.
In the late 1800’s the city was bursting behind the old medieval walls. In a bold step the city planners took over land outside the walls to build the Eixample - the Catalan word for expansion. However, they made a very smart decision. Instead of depending on bureaucrats to design the new area, they consulted architects, artists, and clever city planners to build something for the future. It was a new age with the coming new century. Countries were wanting to separate themselves from previous colonizers influence and show the best of the Catalan culture.
Broad walkable thoroughfares lined with cooling leafy Plane trees were laid out in a grid. The buildings at each intersection were placed at a diagonal cut effectively creating mini plazas at every stop. Green park spaces ere generously placed. Communities arose out of neighborhoods. Schools, stores, and basic needs were all nearby. It was a triumph.
Then, the planners wisely invited the best architects available to design unique buildings to adorn the streets.
Perhaps there was no more daring architect at that time than Anotoni Gaudi. He would become the foremost proponent of Catalan Modernism. It is difficult to describe, perhaps deliberately so, what exactly is Catalan Modernism. At best it is a reverence for neo gothic styles blended with very modern elements. He loved nature, and many of his projects incorporate themes of the natural world.
Below is another Gaudi designed mansion
He is controversial. Describing the Sagrada Família - his greatest work - , art critic Rainer Zerbst said "it is probably impossible to find a church building anything like it in the entire history of art", and Paul Goldberger describes it as "the most extraordinary personal interpretation of Gothic architecture since the Middle Ages”
The artist Salvador Dali loved it.
Picasso hated it.
Gaudi was an unusual man for his time. He was a strict vegetarian in a very meat centric country. He never married devoting himself to his work. He did confess love for one woman, but she rejected him. He actually received poor grades in architecture school. Gaudi was not only very artistic, but he also understood engineering and how to use steel to support his elaborate structures. He was deeply religious and a fierce supporter of Catalan independence . As a young man he would often dress as a dandy with all the latest fashions. But, as he aged he became more hermit like and dressed as a poor man.
It would be his undoing.
As we walked the Eixample we saw examples, among many other styles, of Gaudi’s work.
This afternoon, after a brief lunch, we headed for his masterpiece - the Basílica de la Sagrada Familia.
Gaudi assumed control of the project in March 1882. He would soon move into a small apartment on the site and spend the 43 years of his remaining life there. He would not see it finished. He liked to say, “My client (God) is not in a hurry.”
Although he had blueprints of sorts he did not keep a lot of notes. During the Spanish Civil war Anarchists broke into his office and destroyed the plans that were there.
This is the front of the ‘Nativity Facade’. It has the distinctive cake in the rain melted appearance. This portion of the church was the only part Gaudi would live to see completed.
I sorely lack the skill to describe the interior that will do it justice. I have visited many cathedrals but none like this work of art.
Soaring high above are columns that resemble trees. In the niches are carvings of flowers and wings of angels. The stained glass leaves a dappled effect on the floor as if you are walking among a forest. It is modern and old at the same time. Although it is a Catholic church, truly it is universal. It does not belong to any sect. It feels like a herald to all of mankind.
It is an astonishing space to stand within. Many Cathedrals hit you with their power They are designed to humble you before the throne of God.
That feeling is not true here. You want to look up. The nave is edifying. Here God doesn’t glare down at you from a golden edifice. In this cool grove He sits beside you and says “You are most welcome here.”
On June 7 1926, Gaudi was out for his regular daily walk. He saw a tram coming down the street. Witnesses say he took two steps back but was struck by a tram going the opposite direction. At that time, trams only traveled at around 10 km/hour (6 mph). Still, the impact was enough to knock him unconscious. Because he was dressed so poorly, people assumed he was a beggar. It would be another 24 hours before someone would take him to receive rudimentary medical attention. At the hospital, the chaplain recognized the victim as the famous architect. By then, it was to late. His injuries had advanced to far. He died a short time later. He was 73 years old.
After his death, the government and fellow architects vowed to finish his work. Using what notes they had and memories of conversations with the great man they decided to press on and complete the job. This legacy continues today.
2026 will mark the 100th anniversary since his death. It was hoped the great work would at last be completed by then. The Covid epidemic has pushed back the completion date.
But that’s ok.
As Gaudi would say, “My client is not in a hurry”.
This is definitely one of my bucket-list cities. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences - I’m imagining the unique grandeur of Gaudi’s masterpiece and marveling at how such an idiosyncratic style ever came to be.