“You can't forge a relationship with learned helplessness, you can only force one and it will always be tenuous. There is always the possibility the peregrine will rediscover the strength of his heart.”
― Rebecca K. O'Connor
So this happened. We were walking along the market near the shore of the Arabian sea. There was a large series of buildings with a sign that read 'Falcon Store'. Out of curiosity and discovered store after store selling large falcons for sport.
It turns out that falconry remains a rare but privileged sport here in the Gulf States. Reportedly, the tradition came from Bedouin tribes in the Arabian Peninsula who used the raptors to hunt game. Over time it has become the hobby of very rich people who spend annually over 20 million dollars indulging in this sport. The largest 'Falcon Hospital' in the world is next door in Saudi Arabia.
It was startling seeing so many shops. There were easily several hundred birds for sale at various price points. I asked the shop keeper where they came from since they are not indigenous to Arabia. Most come from Russia or Pakistan. Most are bred in captivity. The birds that sell for the highest price are caught in the wild. They sell for a few hundred dollars to tens of thousands each.
It is hard not to be moved by the plight of the birds. There are people that are passionate on both sides of the issue of whether something that died out in England in the 17th century should still be going on today. The birds are tied to a post and their eyes are covered to 'keep them calm'. Advocates say the birds in the wild after eating will often stay in one place to rest and conserve energy so it is natural. However, they also need flying time to stay healthy. It is hard to imagine that all of these birds get adequate flight time.
We left to look at the bay and the skyline. It was very smoggy today and the buildings were obscured in the grey air. This surprised me a little. It turns out, this whole region has some of the worst air pollution in the world. Most of it is due to the immense fossil fuel production in the area, particularly in Saudi Arabia. Qatar is just downwind of the Kingdom.
As we observed the haze we were next to a fountain, one of many water features all over the city. Where does all the potable water come from? The is a desert and a harsh one at that so what is keeping the parks and trees so green?
The answer is this area has one of the largest ocean desalination plants in the world. Desalination works by reverse osmosis forcing the salt out of the ocean and leaving behind potable water. It takes a very large amount of energy to accomplish this feat so it is not ideal. The process and it's wastewater also creates considerable pollution. However, when your population is trying to live in one of the most hostile environments on earth (and you have unlimited money) it's what you do.
We leave for South Africa tomorrow. I am sooooo looking forward to driving on the wrong side of the road.
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