“Visit Cape Town and history is never far from your grasp. It lingers in the air, a scent on the breezy, an explanation of circumstance that shaped the Rainbow People. Stroll around the old downtown and it's impossible not to be affected by the trials and tribulations of the struggle. But, in many ways, it is the sense of triumph in the face of such adversity that makes the experience all the more poignant.”
― Tahir Shah, Travels With Myself
Yesterday the weather was warm and clear, a perfect day to go up the mountain. Today, not so much. In Cape Town they say you can experience all 4 seasons in a day, and we found that to be true. Table Mountain was socked in with clouds and it was misty to light rain all day.
So we planned to take the ferry to visit Robbin Island, the prison that held Nelson Mandela. This excursion is one of the most popular here and we woke to find all the ferries sold out today. So instead, we decided to go for a walk in the town center.
So, why not join us? Here we go -
Our day started with a visit to “The World’s Best Coffee shop”. I had read about this place on line and it lives up to the hype.
Inside is a wonderland of Steampunk decor. It really was the most unique coffee house I have ever visited. Every thing from the gear-like tables to the vests the waiters wear appear something out of a Sherlock Holmes movie. The coffee is fresh, favorable and served by staff who know their beans. They will describe a symphony of tastes and aromas found in each blend. If that was not enough, they have an excellent kitchen with a number or great Steampunk inspired dishes.
Here is a short video of the place.
I was in heaven.
Can you find Colleen in this shot?
We left satisfied and ready to get a closer look at the city. Finally we have left the white enclaves we have been traveling around the last week. Here is a city that is very multicultural and it was a pleasure to have a more genuine African experience, if only briefly.
A short walk down the street brought us to the District 6 museum. South Africa would divide different regions by calling them ‘Districts”. District 6 in Cape Town was the site of one of the cruelest acts of the Apartheid -era government.
It was a vibrant multicultural neighborhood in the city. The government declared there area “White Only” in 1966. According the the regime laws, people of color could be evicted and relocated at the will of the white government with no compensation. Thousands were forcibly evicted and moved to a bleak outlying area known as the Cape Flats. That area is still there today.
The rest of District 6, except for churches, this building was a church, was razed to the ground to make way for whites. The building houses memorabilia of the area and a history of the oppression. We had a chance to speak with a 77 year old former resident who spoke about those times and her conviction of “never again”. It was very inspiring.
A few more blocks brought us here to a main square. To our left was the City Hall from which Nelson Mandela spoke after he was freed to thousands. To our right was the Castle of Good Hope.
Despite the fanciful name, the Good Hope building looks nothing like a fairy tale castle but rather a squat fortress built by the original Dutch occupiers between 1665 and 1676.
The back of it used to abut the ocean. However the ever industrious Dutch after centuries in the Netherlands, were very good at reclaiming land. So today it is surrounded by parking lots and office buildings.
From here the Dutch East India Company built their colony to serve as a rest stop for ships traveling around the Horn to India. It was also from here that the country that would eventually become South Africa began. It is the oldest building in the country. Both sides of the Apartheid struggle have very different feelings about the place as you would imagine.
Despite the bellicose purpose of the fort, no shots have ever been fired from it’s ramparts except cerimonially.
So when we learned they were going to “fire the cannon” while they we were there so we stopped to watch.
This fellow came out with great ceremony to explain every detail about how to shot a cannon.
It was a very small cannon.
Turns out it was his and he brings it from his home.
But, it was loud -
We made our way up the street to Greenmarket Square. For over a century the cobble stone square has served as a forum for public announcements. In 1834, the declaration of the abolishment of slavery was announced here.
Today it makes for an excellent people watching area with lovely outdoor cafes. The square itself is hard to get a sense of because it is jammed with street vendors selling African souvenirs.
And then we came across this musical group. They are from the townships and this group helps give the young people a purpose and a sense of belonging.
This is what joy looks like.
At the other end of the Square was a protest. We found tents around a square encamped around a Methodist church. These people are refugees from other African Countries such as Congo, Madagascar, and others who fled to South Africa hoping to all be sent to Canada en mass.
According to the story, they were deceived by their leader because no country accepts mass influxes today for economic immigration. So they are in limbo here in the square as they get their papers sorted out.
We walked on to St George’s Cathedral. Unfortunately this stunning Anglican cathedral was closed today. This was the home church of Bishop Desmond Tutu. The Bishop was a tireless opponent of Apartheid and coined the phrase “Rainbow People” to describe all South Africans in their glorious diversity.
Outside, we encountered another street choir.
Right next to this house of grace was this benign looking building in the Dutch style and painted pale yellow. It dates from 1679.
It’s seeming banality hides it’s horrible history. This is the slave lodge. Inside is a sobering account of the crimes against human beings that took place here. We walked through the exhibits in a quiet silence. How could people do this to other human beings?
We left the sacred halls of the lodge and walked on in the misty rain to “The Company Garden”. As told in the previous post ‘For Want of a Lemon’, the main purpose of the colony was to serve as a rest stop and refueling station for passing ships.
Here was the actual garden that supplied the goods. Today it is mostly a peaceful park filled with old Fig and Magnolia trees.
We came across this lovely bride our for a photo shoot
It was here our walk ended and we returned to our flat.
Thanks for coming along!
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